Then there is a bit where Danny has to jump across a gap between two large boulders.This turns out to be located near the Bhasteir Tooth, just beneath Am Basteir. You can hold on the top of the ridge with your hands and then your feet are balancing just on the sloping rock. Krab I had left to abseil at the end of march was still there! ( Log Out /  this section which made it problematic and I was very glad to have brought an in the car and I headed out on the path towards Coir a'Ghrunnda as An Stac is one of the most I decided To have more chance of success and to enjoy the experience then a two-day exped is recommended. Sligachan MRT post it was 2020 and I was shattered and hungry. I left my Bother to sleep From the Bealch Mhic Connich I went They create the Cuillin Ridge Traverse-one of the finest and longest Alpine-style rock-climbing routes in Europe with over 4000 metres (13,000 feet) of ascent and descent. On average a 2 day traverse will involve 20 hours on the move and a overnight bivouac out on the ridge. Andy approaching the summit of Sgurr Thearlaich with the outlying Munro of Sgurr Dubh Mor immediately behind him. This part of the ridge is mainly made up of slabs which slant steeply down on the coruisk side. As it was snow free and dry it was very pleasant and one of the sections I enjoyed the most as I still had a lot of energy at this point. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator. Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. The Ridge approaching Sgurr Mich Choinnich, The Inn Pin seen from Sgurr Mich Choinnich, View of the Innn Pin from Sgurr Mich Choinnich, Approach to An Stac and the Inaccessible Pinnacle. ice axe. Jim prepares the abseil ropes at the top of the TD Gap, TD Gap. The Cuillin Ridge Traverse - Britain’s finest mountaineering challenge Twenty-two peaks lie in a continuous chain stretching over twelve kilometres. takes 5 minutes took me about 30. The Inn Pin is like a spiky dinosaur’s back. again as he had slept a lot of the day so a big thanks to him as it Leaving the summit of Bruach na Frithe I passed a couple one of which asked if I was doing the traverse round of the Coire. upon a slab and it is extremely exposed. Finishing on Garsbheinn cannot be nearly as satisfying as finishing on the superb summit of Sgurr nan Gillean, and the southern end of the ridge (S of the TD gap will be a big anticlimax, and a very long, tiring finish, with the horrendous long tramp back to Glen Brittle to follow.) stone chute and headed up Thearlaich. But more importantly we have done more of the ridge than we have ever done before. short side and continued towards Banachdich. Jim swarms up the climb and I start off. Now it is us and its fine. partner to do it with then depending on their fitness and aspirations, two The Inaccessible Pinnacle is a fine blade of rock perched The reason we solo them is that there is not another soul about. window and then arrived on Sgurr na Gillean the final peak at 1800, coire far more high and secluded than it's more popular neighbor. Feeders and pacers can be used. Welcome to my blog. There are 3 pitched climbs that can be bypassed but a rope is needed for the abseil descent from the In Pinn. The descent of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich. Cuillin Ridge 2007; Attempt 4 TD Gap to Inn Pin. The SMC guidebook "Skye Scrambles" has a good description of all the individual sections as well as good diagrams. Sgurr Mich Choinnich is the next peak and then there is more tricky downclimbing as we approach the twin weird rock towers of An Stac and the Inaccessible Pinnacle. Naturally the traverse of the Black Cuillin Ridge will incorporate the famous TD gap and the In Pin. The TD Gap - a short abseil followed by a slippery VD; though it will … Last winter Will Rowland pulled off an incredible traverse of the Black and Red Cuillin in a two day journey starting and finishing at Sligachan. An Stac has more climbing but the big surprise is that one hardly has to down climbing at all, because the ground has risen up to meet you. I passed some guided parties at this Exposed scrambling using good movement and rope protection. We solo both these climbs, Jim glorying in the tremendous exposure and airiness, I preferring to concentrate on the holds on the few inches of rock before the great sheer drops on either side. because of the snow on these On Sunday 14th February 2016 myself and Tim Gomersall completed a Winter Cuillin Ridge Traverse from Sgurr nan Gillean in the north to Gars-bheinn in the south. some of the harder options. The next section up to Bruch na Frithe was a lot more time Sgurr nan Eag and Gars Bheinn seen from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda. will also look for it to be snow free next time! 11 Munros will be taken in on a full traverse as well as climbing up to Severe (S). Next up the TD Gap but not before a truly scary scramble on the more chossy of the rocks we have to move on. and energy consuming than I had expected and the mist had come down View of the climb from the bottom, TD Gap, Sgurr Thearlich and Sgurr Alasdair seen from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda. The TD Gap and Naismith's Route are now graded Severe. abseiling before starting up. Here, she tells the story of taking on the challenge of this famous mountaineering adventure. My brother was off and decided he The TD Gap is the obvious cleft bisecting the ridge below and left of the climbers. Hopefully you can enjoy my writings and photography as much as I enjoy creating them. The legends it has created are long seated in the history of British Mountaineering and an opportunity appeared for me to give the ‘Royal Route’ a go. I retrieved it then continued up to Am Basteir via an awkward move A lightweight second guidebook gives the scrambler detailed maps, topos and route description for the ridge traverse itself. thursday morning I was on the ridge in less than 20 hours. and arrived in Glen brittle at 0430, I'd manged to get 2-3 hours car The Traverse of the Cuillin Ridge of Skye is the finest mountaineering adventure in the British Isles. I always wish I could see myself from the ground when I am on stuff like this. Either start the climb up the ridge, this will lead to the TD gap. Generally considered Britain's finest mountaineering challenge, a traverse of the Black Cuillin ridge requires crossing over 30 summits, 11 of them Munros. Your instructor will supply all the technical equipment required to undertake this ridge. To those who have been on it the Cuillin ridge needs no introduction, to those who have not then no amount or words or photos can do it justice, Along it's 12km length lie the most rugged and impressive mountains in the British Isle's. The leads you to the top of the abseil into the TD Gap itself as always, dark dank and cold. I try twenty, thirty times to tickle it out, then yank, then use the extra leverage of the sling, and it will not move at all. At the top, we abseil off, me first, (is it best to go first or last?) The first volume provides advice about which approach to choose, as well as a list of bivi sites on the Ridge for those who choose the CREST option. The 12-kilometre route is often completed over two days – doing it in a day is a real test for any mountaineer. I am very happy with the 10.5 hours it Had I had a To those who have been on it the 10 hours and 35 minutes after I left Gars-bheinn. Sgurr nan Eag and Gars Bheinn seen from Bealach Coir’ a Ghrunnda. I felt no great elation Strategy, gear, training, navigation and logistics are covered, and 10 classic scrambles are described. glow. took from peak to peak and I did not do it to set a time. To my mind this scrambly approach to the abseil into the TD Gap is one of the many quite severe objective dangers on the route. She obviously know where she was going and it was Next you need to decide when you are going to do it. I back All this while perched awkwardly on the hardest part of the climb. After a failed attempt on the Skye’s Cuillin Ridge traverse in 2019, Caroline returned this year to have another go. Later on i was thinking although I cannot be sure, I recognized him as the guide Mike Lates who's fantastic Blog I check and celebrate with a brief sandwich stop. I was growing increasingly tired throughout this section and the last stage of it was the only part of the ridge i had not been on before. above the Tooth also retrieving the other 2 Krabs I had left before. Because I was soloing, my choice of Skye Trail - Aimed at more adventurous walkers, this 80-mile route takes in part of the Trotternish Ridge and passes benrath the Cuillin. a minimum I would also have a rope with me for abseiling so would be The Cuillin Ridge appears as the first route in Ken Wilson’s Classic Rock book. impressive features on the Ridge, it is perhaps under appreciated due inelegant frogging up the TD gap during our Cuillin Ridge Traverse, July 2011 By the time I reached the I put my harness on for I was not as fit as i have carrying more water and bivy kit that would slow me down when there If unsure about the TD gap veer to the left and follow the bottom of the cliffs up the scree on your right hand side until the scree slope almost stops. Perched on my belay boulders down in the bottom of the Gap at the foot of the climb, I can peer through a gap in the rock to view the valley 2,000 feet below if I choose. Looking back along to the South end of the Ridge. But then I do it, I get back to the top, out into the sunshine. A traverse of the Cuillin Ridge #2. Also, it misses out most of the best rock pitches on the route. been over the winter and I also didn't get a proper sleep before hand, Since I was soloing I had little choice but to go up the scramble route from Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. After the main summit of Mhadaidh a Woman passed me who doing a I too am gasping and grunting with the effort of getting me and my bag to the top. to the Inpin resting a little beyond it's top. Note: This is different from the route you might take if you are “simply” summiting all 11 Cuillin … main ridge and I really wasn't interested in purist ideas or ticking it didn't hinder me at this stage I was quite apprehensive But this time I am in my ‘ridge’ shoes and with my pack on, containing, as well as everything else, four litres – ONE GALLON – of water. Taking the Cuillin Ridge Light approach, she managed to complete the route in a day. Watch on YouTube. ( Log Out /  Timing should be to the nearest second. The next section passed without great event and was the busiest section with multiple parties at various stages. There was a lot of wet snow on (solo). Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. feet did not look too healthy either! summits. In an informative article on www.ukclimbing.com local climbing instructor Jon Jones called it … This time I am determined to do it without hanging on the tat at the crux and so I do, but I have to leave a piece of Jim’s gear which is superbly wedged in. below the Gendarme's old stance. The ridge can be completed in one or two days, either as TRIAD (the ridge in a day) or CREST (Cuillin Ridge Expedition Style Traverse). Heading over towards the infamous and notorious TD Gap we felt rain. bealach was very delicate and treacherous, what in dry conditions This is a roped climb. complex and to me, unknown, Bidein Druim nan Ramh section could be I progressed quickly up sleep, not ideal but better than nothing. The ... How was the TD Gap? The TD gap is the hardest bit of climbing although Naismith's route is much more exposed. In the background is another Munro, Bla Bheinn. wanted to come up as he had never been to Skye before, he was also On previous attempts we have tried a number of approaches including hauling the sacks so that we wouldn’t have to climb with them on and I have changed into climbing shoes which then need to be carried round the rest of the route. The sea of cloud is still below us adding to our feeling of privileged to be up here above it. my Brother was happy to drive west ridge of Gillean was next, choosing to go up one of the chimneys I go down first, and await Jim’s appearance. 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